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The DWL-1000AP supports Wired Equivalent Privacy (WEP), MAC address control, and user authentication to ensure a secure network connection. When connected to an Ethernet LAN, the DWL-1000AP automatically identifies the IP of the host PC as well as the subnet. In addition, the IP address of the DWL-1000AP can be manually assigned. The bandwidth data transmission rate can be set automatically using the dynamic auto-sensing configuration or set manually to 11, 5.5, 2, or 1 Mbps.
You can manage the DWL-1000AP remotely with its access point manager software, which can be installed on Microsoft Windows 95 OSR2, 98, 98SE, NT 4.0, Me, and 2000.
I just got of the phone with D-Link technical support. I am not joking, the gentleman on the other end told me that I had "fried" my card upgrading the firmware. I was angry that he used the words that "I" had fried it and I clarified with him. He said multiple times "Yes, the firmware fried the access point". To be completely sure I said "You are saying that your software fries your products, is that correct" to which he replied "Yes".
On the upside, he said they will send me another access point. On the downside I have not received the email he said I would get with instructions.
I don't think I will ever purchase anything from D-Link again. At least not until they can keep their software from frying their hardware.
However, as soon as I upgraded to the new firmware from the DLink site, the product dropped connections so often that it is unusable. This happens with no encyption turned on, or using the 64 or 128 bit modes.
This is a common problem with the new firmware, and DLink refuses to acknowledge the problem, or to post a "downgrade" to restore the original firmware. The problem has been visible on the Internet for a year. I have gone from a DLink admirer to never wanting another one of their products.
If you have purchased this unit, then do NOT install the firmware. If not, then look elsewhere and avoid DLink products.
I spent the last 3 hours trying to configure it and still not works. The AP Manager don't recognize it and when configuring it manual, the MAC number gives me problems.
Right know I'm writting to d-link support for advice. :( I just wish the installation could be easier.
After reading other reviews, I purchased the 650+ cards. I highly reccomend doing so. I get solid reception, varying between 75% and 100% throughout my entire hosue (cordless phones and all). Spend the extra few dollars and get the 650+ cards, especially if you eventually upgrade to the D-link 22mps wireless router.
This product is a little difficult to configure. (Anyone with a decent amount of networking knowledge should have no problems though.)
The only serious problem is it does not pick up an IP address from DHCP, as advertised; assigning one manually to the access point is required.
For WEP, make sure to use the hex translation of your password for both the access point and any cards. In one of the more glaring examples of designing products without keeping the customer in mind, D-Link's algorithms for translating string passwords to their hex equivalent is different on their access points and their cards! So you could have typed in the same password on both your D-Link access point and your D-Link wireless card (let's say the 650 - only $40 at Office Max), and your connection would fail.
Range is quite limited; another customer was quite accurate when he/she said that you have to treat access point manufacturers like cordless phone manufacturers: don't believe their range claims. Buy this product elsewhere, try it out, and return it if you don't like the range. I would bet it would be sufficient for most people.
After it was installed, the unit started dropping the connection when the remote computers try to transmit large files to the access point. The customer service at D-Link imediately went into denyal mode and said "it was an interferance problem problem". I tried to explaine that this problem only occured AFTER I upgraded the firmware, but the tech would not deviate from his obviously rehearsed responce. After reviewing many web pages, I found out this is a common problem after the firmware update.
I would highly advise anyone to avoid this and all D-Link products due to poor customer service. However, the unit does work out of the box. If you do buy one, DO NOT load the firmware update. It is better to live with the 64bit (40bit) encoding.
I gave up and replaced this unit with a US Robotics USR2249 which works great.
Thinking that having the same vendor for both AccessPoint and PCCARD would ease things, I have been proven totally wrong.
First off - the AccessPoint comes with a 'bios' that doesn't support WEP128 - but an upgrade is available. After trying to install the upgrade 3-4 times it finally took - but the result was that the web-management went belly up - invalid HTML, missing buttons etc. did I couldn't control basic stuff like the name of the wireless device. Secondly, the WEP didn't support tokens - so you have to type all 32 bytes in HEX on both sides. Not easy.
Well - long story short - even with the bios change, I never got 128 encryption to work. Standard 64 went fine.
Next - the AP software doesn't allow you to see what MAC's are connected or if there are other AP's around. This was a big setback, for as I discovered when I finally trashed DLink and got Linksys instead - a neighbor of mine has another AccessPoint - and it was causing me many problems.
In general - allthough I had a full (100%) connection, the link could go dead. I would have to refresh every so often - causing my work to get totally obscured (loosing database connections, X server connections, SSH took much time to recover from). Some times I would have to refresh 5 times in an hour.
On top of this, the connection speed was never 11mbps for long. It would fluctuate early on, and end up betweene 1 and 2 mbps before it would finally stop data transfer - and this while the link signal was between 90 and 100%.
When I finally replaced both PCCARD and AP with Linksys, all my worries and irritation with Wireless went away. Allthough it's a faster model (G) than my old Dlink, it now holds at least 48mbps connections up and going at all times. Big difference - I don't loose my connection any more. It also helped, that I now can see other AccessPoints so I could set it up to avoid conflicts. The Linksys accesspoint allows me to log, WEP128 works straight out of the box, the website is up and has no errors on it. I even have more security control on who and where this access point works - and if I ever wanted to get the accesspoint as part of a larger network, there are options to tell it about it's neighbors so it will work as one large virtual network. DLINK has a long way to come to even get close to all this nice functionality.
I would recommend Linksys to anyone starting out on Wireless anytime. Don't go through what I did to just save a couple of bucks.
I had hoped to put the access point in the basement with the router and modem, but the signal strength was poor (operable, but poor), so I had to move the AP to the main floor.
Sure beats running CAT-5 cabling all over the house!
That being said, it doesn't seem to have the range that some of the "more professional" systems do, but then, it is also a fraction of the price. I think that this system is the best "SOHO" catagory Access Point available.
I do have a couple of gripes, though. There should be a better "locking" mechanism for the power cord. It knocks out too easily, and brings the network down. It is kind of funny because they provide you with mounting screws, and suggest you mount it high, which leave the power cable dangling precariously. That said, I think that this is a "nit", and can be worked around by mounting it in a low traffic area.
First off, the D-Link product is tiny and convenient. It comes with a wall mount if one decides to mount it that way. I do not know why no vendor includes a network cable, but make sure you have one before you get the product.
I connected the D-Link to my Linksys Broadband router and based on the literature the D-Link was supposed to get an IP address from the DHCP server and I would be up and running. Well that was not the case, I do not know if it was the Linksys or the D-Link but after 20 minutes of messing with the manual, I still could not make a connection.
Here is what I have discovered. If it does not work right away, throw away the manual and call technical support. The manual was useless. I went through the setup step by step and nothing worked. I was convinced that I had another defective product. But with the help of technical support (about a 20 minute wait) we had it up and working in 5 minutes. Here is a procedure that works if the unit seems dead out of the box.
1. Reset the unit and write down the MAC address. This is the same as the units Serial number.
2. Connect the unit to a network hub and your computer to the same hub. You must have a standard network card for this procedure to work. If you only have wireless, I would recommend getting at least 1 wired connection, otherwise you will be in for prolonged frustration.
3. Run the installation software and if the unit is not detected automatically, be prepared to add the unit manually. Try to follow the manual, but in my case, the IP addresses in the manual only confounded the problem.
4. Determine the IP address of your network card. This can be found by running the command ipconfig from the MS DOS command prompt.
5. Once you determine the IP address of your network card (in my case it was 192.168.1.101 for a linksys network), add the device manually. Type in the MAC address (Serial Number) and then pick an IP address in the same network as your network card. Do not use the IP address in the manual (192.168.0.10) unless your network card has the same first three numbers (192.168.1.xxx). In fact, I do not ever recommend using 0 as a network address. I picked 192.168.1.10 and then the software found and added the device flawlessly.
6. Next, pick the same SSID as your wireless network card. Pick something you can remember like HOME for home.
That procedure is what finally got my unit to function. As a side note, this same procedure worked for the Hawkings unit as well. In fact, I think they are the same unit only different packaging. Same power units, same software, and same quirks. So for functionality, get whatever unit is cheaper, the Hawkings or the D-Link. Although the Hawkings has even worse technical support than D-Link.
I would also not recommend the unit for first time network users. Good price and good product overall once you get it working. However, I am disappointed with the claim for DHCP and range. The unit was supposed to grab an IP address from my DHCP sever and I would not have to configure the unit manually, so claimed the literature. Well it does not work that way, and neither did the hawkings. Technical support told me that it happens that way sometimes. In addition, I live in a very simple three-bedroom square shaped southwest stucco home and even with unit in the center of the house my connection quality drops to nearly 10% just on the patio. Nevertheless, I predict the same quality from all the vendors; it is the same with cordless telephones. Take the range they claim; divide by 4 and that is what you will really get.
1. All the great reviews out on the Internet about this great Access Point.
2. The fact that the D-Link Access Point won the PC Magazine's Editors Choice Award in the Small Office Category. That alone tells me it is the best out there today.
And after installing this wonderful piece of modern technology, I was nothing short of amazed at how well it worked in my home. Not that I didn't expect it to work well, but sometimes you just have to experience it to believe it.
It says in the instructions not to place the Access Point close to any device(s), which emit radio waves. This includes Radios, Monitors, TVs, etc. And preferably Line of sight. But as you know line of sight isn't the easiest thing to do. And this applies to any Access Point or wireless networking device.
Once I got the network up and running I was able to obtain a "Very Good" connection on the other side of my 5-bedroom home. I would highly recommend this product to people who have kids, like myself, and you want them to be able to access the internet from the other side of the house, but don't want to run the expensive wires.
I can now connect to my network here at home from everywhere in my house (2 story home) and some areas outside. Overall I am very impressed with this wireless technology and I feel that D-Link has a demanding grasp of it.
The Access Point detected my PC card rather quickly and I was suprised how quick I was able to add a wireless connection to my existing home LAN.
Recommended to all.
I wanted to extend my little network here at home to include my laptop. The whole purpose of a laptop is mobility, so a wireless connection to my other computers and the Internet are pretty much mandatory.
The setup was fairly easy thanks to the documentaion provided with the product and reviews I have read throughout the Internet. As far as speed goes, I can tell the difference when trasfering files between my computers here at home, but downloading from the Internet doesn't seem much slower or faster. The amount of features are plenty for an average user like myself and I especially like the design. It fits nicely into anyones home.
The Access Point (AP) was recognized by the wireless adapters very quickly and easily. I have had no problems in my home with this product except for the initial configuration. It took some extra time I wasn't counting on but I was able to resolve my problem with the fine documentation provided.
I recommend this product to anyone who is like me and doesn't want to run wires.
I have the USB adapter and the PCMCIA card. The Access Point performs with great speed throughout my home where ever I am. Granted I have a relatively small home, but nonetheless it works great for me. Except for my upstairs balcony.
The documentation that comes with D-link's Access Point, and the other Wireless products I bought, is very helpful in the little troubles I came across when configuring the products to my perfectionist needs.
I would Highly recommend D-Link Wireless Products. It has made my life easier and it is something I can show off to my friends when they come over.
There was really nothing to it. Although I did have to change networking info on my laptop so I could gain access to the Network here at home, but that is mandatory if you change networks.
By the end of the day I was sitting on my couch watching TV and surfing the internet on my laptop, while upstairs my cable modem and Access point provided my with my constant connection. It was like something off of TV. I feel so special now.
Soon I hope to get my friends over with their wireless adapters in their laptops and we can have a wireless LAN party.
I first went to set-up the Access Point and it is fairly easy, I just plugged in the power source and then to my switch via eathernet cable and i already had a wireless adapter in my laptop so all i had to do was change the info on my laptop as stated in the manual that came with the Access Point and i was able to surf the internet from my couch without any wires in my way.
I felt like I was in a commercial. This is the type of thing you only see on TV. I was amazed I could do it myself, is such a short time.
Highly Recommended to anyone who doesn't want to run wires throughout their home.
As for range. I didn't expect to get anywhere near the specified range since I'm sure that's quoted as line of site -- even for the indoor number. I live in a 1430 sq ft house and the WAP is in a spare bedroom which is about in the middle of one side of the house. With it just sitting on the computer desk I can use it in most of the house. I moved it to a strategic location in the closet so that the coffee table in my living room (opposite corner of the house) has only one wall to pass through and I can use it everywhere I've tried. Unfortunately the Intel software doesn't seem to have a connection quality indicator but it seems to be fine. (Keep in mind that even the slowest speed is plenty fast for DSL rates.)
The documentation is the weak link here. It might be fine if you have a D-Link pcmcia card but woefully inadequate for my Intel card. Luckily I work as a software engineer and my degree is a hardware background so I had the wherewithall to get this thing up and running fairly quickly (though it could have been much quicker). I pity the non-techie who runs into the problems I did as they would be *very* frustrated. Again, it might be easy as pie with a D-Link card. (I bought an Intel one because I've always been happy with their nics, it was only a few dolars more, and they are proud to state they have a linux driver.)
Oh, don't count on the help within the installation software. It doesn't work as it says it was created for a language that your version of windows doesn't support. How bad is that? Maybe they have an updated version online. I haven't checked as I got it working anyway. That would have been my next step.
Rank a 2 on documentation but the product still gets a 4 because it works just fine in the end. Would have been a 5 if their documention was better and the online help actually worked. Very cool though.
Computer Hardware: Laptop: Dell Inspiron 600mhz, W2k Network: NT 4.0 Server, W2K Server Switches: 3Com and Linksys
Quality: After working with dlink first, linksys blew away dlink on the feel of quality and workmanship. As we all know, these components are so miniaturized that they could put them into any light-weight enclosure. dlink chose the light packaging approach....feels "cheap." linksys chose the mid-weight package...you feel as if it has higher quality...and you got something for your $250-300! linksys chose the dual antenna design over the single on the dlink. Technically, I am not sure if it is better but the actual reception really is... These are subjective and personal factors but for most, it makes a difference.
Ease of Use: From the documentation, to the support, to the software, it is really apparent dlink cut costs everywhere and with things they shouldn't. The setup is extremely confusing, the software is buggy...really, and the docs are horrible. In my manual, every other page did not have printing on it...quality control missed this! Linksys...even though I had to use the USB setup at first (dlink does not have a USB port on their access unit), the configuration was simple. The docs actually explained the parameters on the configuration screens. Once I set the IP address to one recognized on my network (I am not using DHCP), I used the linksys SNMP configuration tool to set and adjust the other parameters. I have a laptop. When using the wireless network card on the dlink, if you eject the card, the next time you re-insert the card, it does not remember your setting. You have to go back and set the parameters in order to get the card to function again. I called dlink tech support on this...on hold forever, hung up, and no call back...even when they asked and I left my mobile number, just in case... On the linksys, when I re-inserted the wireless card, it remembered the setting.
Service and Usability: Both products have a signal and quality meter in their utilities. One important note...the distance specs on both of these products (I think the 802.11b category overall) are NOT accurate. Inside of your home and through walls, etc., expect much less. How much less...you need to try it out to be sure. If you have line of sight to the access unit, these distances will go up. I mounted the access unit in my living room, on top of the entertainment center. I chose this location b/c it had the best reception. With the dlink, in the master bedroom (through one wall!), I was *barely* able to use the network...0-40 on the signal meter. On one occasion, once the dlink card lost the network, I could not get back on?? The total distance to the access unit was 30ish feet. With linksys, my signal was consistent at 40-60...once or twice is dipped to 20-30 but came right back up. I also tried a configuration with the dlink access unit and linksys card. They did work together but I could not improve the signal quality. I concluded that the dlink access unit was one of the problems. When I used the dlink wireless card, several times my computer shut down automatically??
Overall: Save tons of time and money...just buy the linksys system...access point and cards. Linksys is priced well and makes a quality offering. It is very clear to me that dlink is just focused on price and cutting their cost.
First the good news: this (along with a DWL-650 PCMCIA card) was definitely easy to install to my already existing network. I first downloaded the latest drivers for the DWL-650 - their were none for the DWL-1000AP. I scanned the manual for the DWL-1000AP and it said that I had to get the laptop setup first. So as per the instructions in the DWL-650 manual, I first installed the new downloaded drivers. I then plugged in the PCMCIA card into my laptop (HP Omnibook 4150 running WIndows 2000). Win2K properly recognised it and installed the software drivers all automatically. I rebooted my laptop, and while it was booting I then plugged the DWL-1000AP into a free spot in my network hub, plugged in the AC adaptor, and watched the leds do their thing and indicating that it was up and running. When the laptop re-booted it, found the DWL-1000AP and I saw my already existing network shares! Total time spent was about 1.5 hours including the 2.86mb download. Pretty easy, very fast to get going. I started out impressed.
But now for the bad news. I wanted to test how good it worked. I put the access point up on top of a tall bookcase near the entrance of my home office which is on the main floor. I ran the configuration utility to examine signal strenght and link quality. I'm not sure which each measures, but it is an indication of how things are working. In my office, a total of 8 feet away from each other, the measurements varied from excellent to fair (100% to 46%) with it in a stationary position. Jumping all over the place for no reason I could attribute. But as far as I could tell, it worked just dandy fine at 11Mbps (or so that what it says). I walked 20 feet to my chair in the family room. This introduces 1 interior-drywall wall. Signal strength dropped to fair to poor (40% - 6%) to an occasional "no connection". It still seemed to work ok though. I went upstairs to my bedroom which is above the office introducing a floor and perhaps a wall between laptop and acess point. Probably about 25-30 feet total, worked about the same as the family room. I then went to the basement level, directly below the spot in the family room which worked and could not get anything at all. This included about 6 foot of sapce from the top of the book case, a wall or 2, and a floor. I did find some "poor" spots directly beneath the AP, but it seemed very sluggish.
To summarize, nowhere near the advertised 35-100 METERS (approx 100-300 feet)! Walls and floors do get in the way. I called tech support to see if there was anything I could do. After a wait of over 45 minutes (toll call!), I was told that walls and floors (and microwave ovens and 2.4 ghz phones and remote control signal tranmsmitters) cut the distance down dramatically. A direct line of sight was needed to get close to the 35 meters. I believe that this is mis-leading, if not false, advertising.
So in short, if you are using this within a room, this is ok. If you are using this to try and prevent snaking network wires through walls and floors, it may work. If you can snake your access point to give you a better direct line of sight, maybe.
P.S. According to their tech support, other 802.11b PCMCIA cards may work for greater distances. Also, if you live in a "thin-walled" apartment, you should actually install the DWL-1000AP software and change the default SSID, encrpytion codes, etc. so that just in case your neighbor also gets a wireless setup, he can't see your network. Feel free to email me (bqhome@mail.com) if you have any questions about my experience.
Finally, I did keep this since MY goal was to be able to work in the family room while being near the wife. I just had hoped it would allow me more distance and actually let me work from a lounge chair outside when it warms up. Too cold here to try it out now.
At any given moment, an arrow must be either where it is or where it is
not. But obviously it cannot be where it is not. And if it is where
it is, that is equivalent to saying that it is at rest.
-- Zeno's paradox of the moving (still?) arrow
An authority is a person who can tell you more about something than you
really care to know.
